One of Kraków’s most evocative bars, the aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia candlelight, forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of the former Jewish district.

A dim bohemian cafe by day, in the evenings Alchemia’s murky mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the ruddy regulars and excitable tourists queuing before the indifferent bar staff. The cellar, when it’s not being used as a student disco, plays host to some of the best concerts in town and is a prime participant in annual jazz and klezmer festivals, and the adjacent Alchemia od Kuchni serves a full menu of excellent eats until 23:00 (24:00 Fri & Sat). Essential in every way.